It's been a busy month of getting stuff done and i haven't really stopped getting out thanks to the great weather and long evenings:
I'll break things down by area.
Scotland is a place i always wish i could spend more time in. I reckon there is more bouldering (on actual boulders) on the Schist around loch lomond, katrine and Goil than there probably is in the whole of england, it's just 20years behind those in terms of development and the bogs and midges and rain make sure that things aren't too easy. Things i've wandered off the road to find up there are of a great standard though and i just saunter up rarely for the odd visit, the dedicated locals are finding some brilliant new things now http://alandjen.com/2015/05/26/a-good-start-to-the-year/ and John Watson will have his work cut out for the new bouldering guide which has gone from pretty much a pamphlet to two volumes since the last one.
I should have stuck this in the last blog, its the directions (click through to flickr) to the Succoth boulder i've developed. Probably useless now the midges are out!
I had a flying visit to Glen Nevis on the way to and from a family do. I had intended to walk up to sky pilot as i still haven't been up. Upon getting out the car and walking up to the cameron stone i realised a few things. My legs were knackered from the past few days hill walking, and the Cameron Stone looked like it had plenty value on it for a session. I warmed up on some classics and climbed the News in in pidgeon gaelic. Its always a bit crap climbing on problems made up by liars (Si'O) as no one has a clue where things really go. In the end i settled for an independent start not using the undercling to the left which Mike used on his version which is an independent start from this one, my version is closer to Rok's (the slovenian wad), I'm sure it can all be cleared up before the next guide. With a bit of time to kill i started sorting the stream a little and did some deadlifting of a large boulder under the boulder as my lower back wasn't quite sore enough, this was a bit of a wrestle and i cut my hands up a little wriggling it into a better position but it was worth it. Si O' had decided from his armchair that the arete should be 7B, I prefer to listen to talented sanity and Dave Mac had mentioned it as a line which needed doing last time i was in the Glen. I put my thinking cap on and was chuffed to guess a decent sequence fast. Getting the rock shifted, guessing the sequence and getting that problem climbed is probably my best effort of the year and i had to push through a few pain barriers on the small crimps to get it done. Its often the circumstances which makes climbing special and this was a good end to a great couple of days walking and climbing.
A nice fin from last weekend, This is a really fun squeeze prow at Garheugh.
Mere Scars was a lovely problem at a crag 10mins from me that has brilliant quality sandstone. I last visited when i was 14!
`This shielded wall (the cashmere cat) is definitely my best volcanic lakes find. Really hard crimp moves lead to a pounce move to a pinch at a just comfortable height. I also robbed a cool line Greg had found above, he sorted the landing and did a great job on it and it was a bumper day out all in all.
Proper burly ss to the prow with really chesty squeezing.
Northern Time: Adam had told me Northern Territory had broken and i had been trying the below lines so i checked it out and got side tracked on something hard i'd always wondered about. I felt decent and it uses a brilliant tiny pinch which is like squeezing someones lippy pout. It climbs surprisingly independently considering its location and could be pretty tricky? `time will tell.
What is an independent line is this sucker. A bit of a northumberland LGP and Mark Savage's vision originally. i'd never been able to visualise it properly until this year. I was pretty sure it was going to be 8B until it came together fast in an epiphany moment . It's properly crimpy (Andy wrote it off) on really slopey frictiony crimps and bad feet, basically massively my bag and its technically a slab, bloody love slabs me.
This is a fun/torturous roof at kyloe out as well that involves some painful foot locks and some small crimps on great rock.
All in all not a bad 40 odd days, 10 new 8s and plenty of 7s and a few cool repeats. It's certainly kept me busy and all of it was fun