The drunken Sailor
Posted on April 15, 2012 by Dan Varian
I’ve just had to read my own blog to work out where i’m upto in the discourse of my recent life. The upside of this being that i’ve been busy. Beastmaker has been changing a bit, we decided to have a change around in our warehouse as we have committed to upping our production capacity as we were struggling to meet demand, nevermind being able to develop new products! So a bit of disruption in the last month (sorry if you’ve had to wait) has allowed us to really make some big changes.
To celebrate we finished a mohogany board for a mate of ours (the wood came from his house) Hopefully a sign of things to come anyway in terms of using a few different woods on the machine. We are desperate to make a few new things for people keen to get stronger too. there is alot of Chaff out there and we try and get straight to the meat when it comes to the most efficient & inspiring stuff to train on.
I’m pleased to announce that we’ve also been working on a really nice App for beastmaker users (along with a beastmaker phone holder) so hopefully you should all be able to train super easily on the boards, rather than adapting boxing interval timers off the web. We will be charging for the app but it wont be extortionate and alot of training plans have been written for it. Hence the lack of training plans on the site as this took priority. Interactive training has got to be the way forward. Its almost gamifying training! which can’t be a bad thing.
Handholds: we’ve been upto my neck in them! They keep selling out fast so i wont promote them any more. There aren’t many >8B boulderers who carve wooden holds by hand for ~£3.30 a hold and hopefully the machine will be replacing us soon, but until it does keep your eyes on the site if you fancy some holds for your board. Aside from all that i’ve been doing a spot of climbing and going through a mental war with the most conditionsy but beautiful problem i’ve ever tried. Its been a month of highs and lows on it (mostly lows) and i’ve been enjoying every minute of the sufference (almost) as its been really reminding me how weak i am, and that strength isn’t everything.
On my board i’ve been really happy with my progress. My knuckles haven’t; the rest of me has. I’ve mainly been training in the green zone and stopping once i get near to base level as at the moment i need all the squeeze i can get for the hardest local things i’m on outside. The crux hold on the thing i’m trying outside seems to disappear if i’m not fresh, not like oof i’m too tired to hold that, there just isnt a hold there as its a friction pinch only but the fingers need to create the squeeze across the angles so much that it turns to a slopey unholdable mess when mr floppablob comes to town. Aside from thinking about individual holds too much, the feeling of needing to go on a trip has been creeping in, maybe just a little raid north of the border before the nippies come out?
A few other sneaky ticks from the last fortnight have been:
L’anglais parfait, flash, (8m) Goats crag Ed Brown's Goats masterpiece (7B+)
Ruth Route (8m) Goats Crag Karl Telfers awesome route to the left, great climbing on this! 7B flash
Death Knell (8m) ground up. God this was scrittly, it took me 10 minutes to be able to commit to the last move. 7B+?
Overhanging Crack E2 5C OS solo (the top out of this was an out of body/ all of body experience)
Bernie the Bolt (7m) flying visit down to the peak for the Life on Hold Premiere (seemed hard for 7B+ ground up)
Shotgun Hobo, a nice new link at Goldsborough 8A? holeshot into shotgun hobo stand
Dangleation, Goats (4 in the guide!) SS at the back of the roof on a small undercling and crap pinch, no block for feet. 7C+
Where the Wild things Sit Another incredible Northumberland prow! its like some second century druid ran round all the county crags and carved a perfect prow at each one! The SS uses NO blocs for feet. Morpho 7C+
Suns of Temper St Bees FA Have been meaning to try this for ages, finally got round to it and it didn’t disappoint! 7C/+
Trailer Trash, St Bees. great problem in the classic sense of the word. 7C+
Manuka. AKA Bairn's vision tricky 8A? This takes the wall right of honeycomb wall, left of the manta. Straight up from standing to join the manta at its last juggy flake before the top out. The start holds are the 2 good crimpy holds on the black rock on manta LH. Top out up the Manta for the tick.