If you find yourself here, you have probably got your hands on some Micros! This page is intended to give you a little more info on how to get the most of your little dead hanging holds.
These tiny edges are designed to test and train your crimp strength to the max. They come as a set of 6 holds in 3 pairs, 10mm, 8mm, 6mm in depth. This should give you plenty of options for training your crimp strength, weather you're fairly new to climbing, or a seasoned Font 8C beast.
To mount them, stick them on a vertical surface, wth the pairs round about shoulder width apart. Exactly how you mount them is up to you, either on their own or in and around an existing fingerboard set up...
Be careful when mounting these. We don't recommend using an impact driver as the high torque might split the thin wood. Ideally you should drill pilot holes, then screw the holds on by hand.
To get you started, here is an example training plan:
(This assumes you'll be using 2 arms, but feel free to do the exercises on 1 arm!)
Warm up, hang on for 10-12 seconds, then repeat a few times. That’s it!
For max hangs there are a number of variables that you can use to tweak the difficulty:
- Edge size
- Resistance (weight added/taken off)
- Number of hangs
- Hang time
- Rest time
Set the variables so you are aiming to hang on for 10-12 seconds, for 3 reps. Once you can achieve this for a few sessions, change one of the variables to increase the the difficulty and repeat.
You can mix up the variables between sessions to keep the exercise fresh, while still training the same grip type.
10mm edges +4kg
- If you can hang 3 times for 10 seconds with 3mins rest between hangs...
- Once you can hang for 12 seconds x 3, increase difficulty by either:
Reducing hold size, adding some weight, adding an extra hang, hanging on for longer or reducing your rest time.
- The 2 most important variables are Edge size and Resistance, but the latter 3 are also valuable methods of increasing overall difficulty of the exercise.
-Remember to concentrate on form. If you are training crimp strength, make sure your fingers are in the correct position during the exercise. If you are training half crimp, the same applies. Once your fingers fall out of the desired position, step off. Make the exercise easier then start again.
- It's not about how long you can be off the ground for, but how effectively you are working the specific grip type that you are aiming to train.
How often should I train?
This totally depends on how conditioned you are for the exercises, and also what other training you are doing. Initially once per week will be plenty. But as you progress you can start to introduce a 2nd and 3rd session. Max hang sessions are very short so you can fit them in and around your other training fairly effectively, but they are very intense. Be careful out there... If in doubt, rest.
These holds are in their infancy, but currently the 6mm hold record at beastmaker HQ (on 2 arms) is about 15 seconds (no thumbs!). Cut us some slack, we are all past our best these days!
Please send us any videos of your records to firstname.lastname@example.org, or share via #beastmakermicros - we love seeing them!