Training is changing.
we are keen to keep changing with it.
Digital assistance is becoming easier to incorporate into users lives and we have an App for helping people with their fingerboarding here:
We try to provide climbers with some of the most effective tools to train on as possible but also inform people of the best methods of using those tools.
A very brief introduction is as follows
Indoor climbing is about using bouldering/ route climbing centers and learning to move well and efficiently. They involve elements of play, learning and strength. They offer many alluring factors that are non-crucial for training such as a nice social atmosphere, tasty coffees and traybakes (ok coffee might be crucial to training for most!)
Indoor strength training mainly falls into 3 camps for climbing specific exercises:
when using these apparatus the user should be focused and armed with as much knowledge as possible in relation to their body and their aims.
Fingerboarding Campussing: Steep Boards:
You essentially have two main camps for progression when focussing on the fingers:
Max hangs of around 10 seconds duration with lots of rest between each hang.
Repeaters of around 7 seconds duration in a set of 6 or 7 hangs.
Fingerboards are an excellent tool for developing stronger fingers and when used with weights (either being added or subtracted) are the safest and most quantifiable way of developing finger strength in the comfort of ones own home or local wall. The gains are very measurable and the simplicity of the exercises makes it easy to structure
These focus on the arms and fingers primarily by repeating monotonous moves which creates a nice common stimulus. They are good for contact strength, shoulder strength as well as resistance or strength endurance style exercises.
These generate all round power but emphasise the core more than the other two types so have the ability to expose, identify and work on weaknesses in that area over the other two. Progression will likely be more general in the fingers and arms but still obvious with repeated use. They are an excellent way to develop climbing specific power.
Non climbing related training:
This can be summarised as cross training or multi discipline. IE it will benefit a variety of sports including climbing.
Conditioning Flexibility muscular balance
Having generally fit muscles: Getting yourself in condition by having a body where every muscle group gets a regular use will immediately give you more of a head start in climbing than someone who is more of a sofa fan. Taken to the athlete end it means doing aerobic activities like running or cycling along with gym sessions and gymnastic ring/trx style sessions.
In a climbing sense this involves increasing your loci and ability to use holds in different areas as well as stay close to the rock. Basically stretch, well and lots and you will highstep higher and bridge wider. It is a huge asset in climbing. Given that stretching can be done anywhere for pretty much any length of time and still be beneficial, it's probably the easiest way for the average climber to improve their overall ability.
This is similar to conditioning but due to climbers tendency to favour muscle groups, especially if one does too much campussing then imbalances can form. A well balanced athlete will recover quicker and get less injured so it is a great priority.
Non climbing related exercises are brilliant to incorporate into your training week alongside climbing related ones as there is little conflict between muscle groups if you are smart with your plans or have a good plan written for you.
If you wish to know more then invest in some books or apps by the experts that appeal to you. There is so much out there it can be hard to know where to start and what is junk advice and what is gold.
All the best and have fun improving,
Our one piece of golden advice would be to repeat the adage:
"Never train when you're ill"
The beastmaker team
PDF Training Regimes to follow: click here